What is craft beer or how to define craft beer?
“It used to be simple. You say ‘beer’ and they pour you a beer – that’s it, no interrogations! But what about now?”
– Labietis customer, tired of taste questions, Labietis beer workshop, 2018.
In recent years, new terms have appeared in the dictionary — craft beer, kraft. In Latvian, it’s amatalus. If a concept exists, then we need a definition, and every beer philosopher has their own. A single conversation overheard in a pub perfectly illustrates this:
“There is no such thing as amatalus — only homebrewers who grew into small breweries!” a homebrewer was quick to say.
It all started when people learned to pronounce an IPA or a tongue-twisting saison, that’s when it started!
“Craft beers are only brewed on a small, experimental scale!” said one.
“Nonsense! Amatalus is all about the variety of raw materials!” argued the other.
“I have read, for example, the definition from the Brewers Association in Boulder, Colorado. It says craft beer is beer brewed in a small, traditional, and independent brewery.”
The gentlemen did not go into further detail on these rules, because the next item on the agenda was the definition and tasting of stouts and porters.
Small, traditional and independent.
Small. This point is clearly stated in the law. A small brewery produces less than 500 000 hectolitres of beer per year.
Independent. Most brewery owners must be brewers. Breweries cannot be owned by a person or trader who owns a 10 per cent or more share in another brewery.
Traditional. However, this point is unclear. Traditional for whom? Is a Czech-style lager brewed in Latvia more traditional than a beer with juniper berries or a Latgalian home-brewed beer? Fortunately, this point has changed over time with the addition of “traditional or innovative” (which probably covers the whole spectrum). But these are the rules for small breweries and the definition of craft beer in Colorado. How realistic is that in practice?
"Because I can!"
At Labietis, we say craft is an attitude. It is the brewer’s approach to their work, and it is simple: “Because I can!”
“Why add lemon peel, lingonberries, or some kind of moss to beer?”
“Because I can!” replied the brewer of an independent brewery without looking up from the kettles, as they determinedly threw a handful of lichen into the wort.
You see, unlike industrial breweries, a craft brewer is independent. Independent from food technologists, brand managers, focus groups, and market research data telling them that they absolutely must brew a light beer, a dark beer, a radler, or a non-alcoholic version of any of these right this very minute. The craft brewer couldn’t care less about all that.
Even the customers don’t bother the brewer, because the brewer just makes the beer he likes. Imagine! Scenario A: The brewer brews 650 litres of beer that he himself thinks is great — with figs and beetroot. He puts it on tap and people break chairs in delight! The entire batch is gone in one weekend. That’s fantastic — the brewer has made money. Let’s keep brewing.
Scenario B: The brewer brews the same beer. He puts it on tap and people loathe it. The internet explodes, and the comment section devolves into comments about the brewer’s mother and her relationship with various wild animals. You’d think this would be a bad thing, but it’s not — the brewer now has 650 litres of beer that he himself thinks is amazing. Let’s keep brewing! It’s impossible to lose! Only by being true to oneself can a brewer brew a good beer.
Alright then, what is Labietis' definition of craft beer?
Craft beer could be called the new wave in brewing, a counter-movement to the large industrial breweries which, unlike mass producers, pay more attention to taste and raw materials. Under these conditions, craft beer is often made in smaller quantities to leave more room for experimentation and quality control. Everything else is open to interpretation. Whether you call it craft beer or not doesn’t really matter. It’s always better to drink beer than to talk about it.
And don’t forget to order your favourite craft beer in our e-shop: https://labietis.lv/veikals/
